Title: The United States of Arugula
Author: David Kamp
Based on what I serve my family for dinner on a nightly basis (we have a rotating menu of pancakes, quesadillas, and frozen chicken nuggets), you might never guess that I'd be so obsessed with gourmet food. But I am, and I come by it honestly. My mom loves coming to see her grandchildren in Texas, but I think she likes the chance to visit Central Market even more (and I have a feeling that the pilgrimage is going to become even more important to her when she moves to rural Minnesota this summer). I love nothing better than a good cooking class, or a great dinner out. And when Eddie isn't monopolizing the remote at home, it's usually tuned into the Food Network. Annie, at five, watches reruns of Giada's Weekend Getaways with as much gusto as my other kids watch Go, Diego, Go.
So when my godmother, Annie, showed me The United States of Arugula a few months ago, I knew I needed to get my hands on it. Kamp chronicles the evolution of the American food, especially restaurant food, from the middle of the 20th century, when French cooking reigned supreme and Julia Child pioneered cooking on television, to the present. I guess I never realized that the food worlds was so small. I got the impression from the book that chefs know each other well, fight relentlessly, collaborate, and swap beds.
All in all, it was a highly entertaining read, if you're someone who, like me, turns to the restaurant reviews (and the obituaries :)) first when opening the newspaper, and wants to know why McDonalds' new Southwestern salad is filled with fancy mixed greens and fresh cilantro.
--originally published 5/7/07
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